Slice and Dice: Mastering the Art of Cut Planning

Cut planning is the logical division of an order quantity into lays (spreads) of fabric so that the desired number of garment pieces can be cut in the required size ratio. It is performed to minimize time and effort in marker making, spreading and cutting; as well as to maximize fabric utilization.

Why is maximizing fabric utilization important?

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Fabric can make up 50% - 65% of your total garment costs. This number can run higher depending on your market.

The cut planning process is triggered by a purchase order.

A retailer will either tour a showroom or meet with an account exec from a wholesaler or manufacturer. Products are selected from a look book or samples and an order is generated.

(Example of a PO)

Rivoluzione Della Canapa

CUSTOMER: Modern Green Warrior

ORDER DATE: 3/22/2024 ORDER #: W001

STYLE #: Nat Tee FABRIC: 50% Cotton / 50% Hemp NOTES: No tags SHIP DATE: 4/26/2024 Standard orders will ship in 5 weeks from the date ordered.

ORDER QUANTITY: 500

SIZES XS SM MD LG XL 2X

QUANTITY 45 85 120 120 85 45

COLOR

CREAM 01 23 43 60 60 43 23

RUST 22 42 60 60 42 22

Found in header of order:

Company Name - Rivoluzione Della Canapa

Customers Name - Modern Green Warrior

Order Date - 3/22/2024

Customer Order Number - W001

Our Style Name - Nat Tee

Fabric - 50% Cotton / 50% Hemp

Notes - No tags

Ship Date - 4/26/2024

Note about standard order shipping

Order Quantity - 500 units

Breakdown of customers order:

7 sizes ordered, for a total of 500 units over two colors

XS - 45 units (23 cream & 22 rust)

SM - 85 units (43 cream & 42 rust)

MD - 120 units (60 cream & 60 rust)

LG - 120 units (60 cream & 60 rust)

XL - 85 units (43 cream & 42 rust)

2X - 45 units (23 cream & 22 rust)

From this information, plus the maximum spread height and the fabrics cut-able width we are able to set the parameters for the marker makers.

The maximum spread high lets your spreaders know the maximum spread possible without impacting quality. And the cut-able width lets your marker makers know how wide they can make their markers.

(Example of a cut plan)

STYLE: Nat Tee FABRIC: 50% Cotton / 50% Hemp

FABRIC WIDTH: 58" Maximum Height: 60 ply

SPREADING METHOD: F/F N/E/W NOTE: Place tissue between colors

SIZES XS SM MD LG XL 2X

QUANTITY 45 85 120 120 85 45

COLOR

CREAM 01 13 43 60 60 43 13 SIZES MARKER # HEIGHTS

PLAN 0 0 1 1 0 0 2 1 60

REMAINDER 13 43 0 0 43 13

PLAN 1 4 0 0 4 1 10 1 10

REMAINDER 3 3 0 0 3 3

PLAN 1 1 0 0 1 1 4 1 3

RUST 12 42 60 60 42 12

PLAN 0 0 1 1 0 0 2 1 60

REMAINDER 12 42 0 0 43 12

PLAN 1 4 0 0 4 1 10 10

REMAINDER 2 2 0 0 2 2

PLAN 1 1 0 0 1 1 4 2

TOTALS 32 sizes 4 markers

NOTE FOR SPREADING:

1 marker each for the cream & rust fabrics, spread 60 ply high.

1 marker to spread both the cream & rust fabrics, spread together at 10 plys each.

1 marker to spread both the cream & rust fabrics. Spread the cream 3 ply high and the rust 2 ply high.

Use tissue to separate the cream and rust fabrics in the marker where they are spread together.

Start with the rust fabric in the markers where the cream and rust are being spread together.

Analysis:

We will spread and cut 4 markers in total for a total of 32 sizes.

The 60 ply high markers have 1 size Med & 1 size LG. The 10 ply high marker has 1 size XS, 4 size SM, 4 size XL and 1 size 2X. The marker spread 3 ply cream and 2 ply rust has 1 size XS, 1 size SM, 1 size XL and 1 size 2X.

NOTE: This is to serve as an example of a possible cut plan. There are multiple possible combinations that could have been used to cut this order.